This week I made the long awaited journey from Accra to my new home in the north of Ghana, Tamale. Coming from the metropolis of Accra, Tamale was in many ways a welcome relief. Cars have been replaced with motorbikes and bicycles, boisterous and brash greetings with friendly smiles and smog with dust.
All in all it seems like a good trade. There are many things I love about Accra, but I can’t say I’m so much of a big city boy. A friend once described the difference between Accra and Tamale as being like the difference between Toronto and Victoria, it’s one that seems to fit well.
Life in Tamale is very relaxed and laid back, but the city core is fairly dense so there is a fair amount of excitement (there is actually a nightclub 150 feet from my hotel room).
In the north there is a much higher population of Muslims, I would say even a majority of people here are Muslim. With the call to prayer coming from the grand mosque every morning just before 5am I hardly need to set an alarm.
The most striking things about Tamale so far is cabdrivers and obrunis. After about 5 cab rides I would guess the average age of the cab drivers here to be 16….the 20 year old helped even things out for the two 14 year old who were driving me around. It definitely changes the way you bargain…‘Small Boy don’t try to play these silly games with me’.
The other change from Accra is how many white people are here. Tamale is the capital of the northern region, the most impoverished area of Ghana, sometimes it feels like there are more white trucks and SUVs from all of the non governmental organisations than private cars driving around town. Coming from Accra where I would be surprised to see any Obrunis (whites) in my neighbourhood to Tamale where I see at least one on every block is a bit of a change. Whether it’s the number of Obrunis or the laid back attitude of the people here I have definitely enjoyed being about to wander around the streets without attracting too much attention.
A few days into life in Tamale and so far so good – now for the first real challenge, finding a house.